If the high-octane exuberance of Christian Lacroix didn’t live up to his past efforts with his Spring 2009 couture presentation, there was still plenty of magic. The program notes for the afternoon show titled “The Designs of her Nature” broke down in terms that both rebelled against and recognized the bleak world outside the Centre Pompidou, where the show was held last week.

Lady Lacroix might be “fastened, caught” even “wavering” in this newly sober time. But she remains a bit “untied” and “mischievous” as ever. In Mr. Lacroix’s idiom, this doesn’t simply mean a Crayola super box of unexpected colors and combinations.
It’s also piles of the widest bangles, with the odd floral or coral wreath spiking out; sparkling, plate-sized flamenco hoops; and braided crowns of pink and blue hair. The essence was unmistakable: The world might be gray, but that’s no reason to look it. Time to get out the costume jewelry and play dress up to the hilt.