The public is more familiar with bad design than good design.

It is, in effect, conditioned to prefer bad design, because that is what it lives with.

The new becomes threatening, the old reassuring.

-
Paul Rand
 
July 19, 2010 10:44 PM  (go back to main view)
Celebrating the 2010 California Design Biennial
Michael Schmidt and Lisa Edelstein in front of the designer's tableau
A truly fantastic evening last night at the Pasadena Museum of California Art, celebrating this year's Design Biennial. The house was heaving as some 1,000-plus guests made their way through the galleries and up to the twinkle-lighted rooftop through out the five-hour opening bash (every minute spent standing in my high wooden heels by Calleen Cordero. Yowza!).
Five categories are on view at the show, which runs through October 31, and as marvelous as some of the design is chosen by my fellow curators--covering Graphic Design, Transportation, Product Design and Architecture--it's all about the Fashion. I'm so very proud of the works on view by the 11 designers I selected as curator of the category. Will spotlight each and everyone in the coming weeks.
Right now, it's all about the party shots...
Among the marvelous host committee of pals were Mitch Glazer and Kelly Lynch, two champions of California design, from fashion and film to their tireless efforts to preserve mid-century architecture in and outside Los Angeles.
Miss Paris, in all her six-year-old glory, meets her new glamour heroine, Raven Kauffman. The designer herself created a stunning tableau showcasing her jeweled and feathered pochettes and minaudières as flying out of a black lacquered cage. After two intensive days of installing, she spent the rest of the week hand painting each feather fold and then applying them on this corseted dress. Best dressed among dozens of fabulously dressed attendees.
Two California Girls. Seriously. Designer Calleen Cordero's installation features her shoes, bags and jewelry--all handmade in her North Hollywood workshop. Among her work: the tall heels I strapped on for the night. I went to dinner in a silver pair of pancake-flat sandals I bought from her Beverly Boulevard shop a decade ago.
Nina Clemente was sport enough to spend a few hours of her birthday to fulfill her co-host duties (thank you Nina!). Looking forward to her cooking at a special dinner I'm hosting for Calleen Cordero later this week.


Co-host Miles Siggins and his equally chic wife Kristen Taberner. It was Mile's enthusiasm for Michel Berandi that convinced me to visit the designer's studio--and immediately include him in the Biennial on review of his beautifully made clothes.
Brent Bolthouse, who's added publisher to his motley of mover-and-shaker titles, generously extended 944 Magazine as the opening party's media sponsor. With him is his photographer girlfriend.
On the eve of the Biennial, word came that Gregory Parkinson was named a nominee for the 2010 Council of Fashion Designers of America/Vogue Fashion Fund Awards. Well deserved. And well timed given he's one of the 11 featured in the Biennial. To his right is his right hand, Therese Tran, a friend and stylist Patrik Milani.

Co-host Barbara Kramer has long been a fellow champion of L.A. design talent, and many of the current stars will join her in Paris in October in a new showcase she's been immersed in since January (we happened to meet up then at a dinner party and she was beaming with enthusiasm). Among those in the Paris show will be Annie Costello Brown, showing off her "tattooed" arm jewelry here, whose haute craft necklaces are featured in the Biennial.
Co-host Lisa Bush wowed the crowd in those killer Rodarte heels, which she also offers at her cult footwear shop, Mona Moore in Venice and Montreal. They're even more fabulously dangerous than they appear here.
Mario Cotto was good enough to pre-record his Saturday night show on KCRW in order to spin for the opening. And spin he did, pushing the rooftop fest past the scheduled 10 p.m. closing time.
In contrast to some of the roaring fashion installations, designer Koi Suwannagate presents a stunningly poetic grouping of five looks dressed in her signature recycled cashmere and cotton dresses, located inside an adjunct gallery to the main room.
Martine Bury always looks stunning, but Saturday night was over the top in that cobalt goddess gown. As editor-in-chief of the party's media sponsor, 944 Magazine, she did have to represent. Husband Ryan Crosby turned it out pretty handsomely, too.
Riding high off the return of Shakespears Sister and looking as amazing as ever, Siobahn Fahey was among the friends who came to celebrate Michael Schmidt's dazzling participation in the show...and among the last of our batch kicked out of the museum at the end of a very long but fantastic evening.
Michael Schmidt's Fairy Godmothers? Margo Hamilton recently partnered with the designer to help finally make a reality a signature accessories line for the downtown designer. And Annie Flanders is, well, a godmother to all us freaks from coast to coast, who were nurtured on her magazine, the original Details. Now we're all just thrilled to call the wildly elegant, wildly red head a friend.
Gregory's Girls: Alisa Ratner, Liseanne Frankfurt and Therese Tran represent in the perfect little summer dresses by their pal Gregory Parkinson.
Scott Nathan, the lensman behind the image of Dita Von Teese, brandishing Swarovski-soldered aviator sunglasses by Michael Schmidt. We worked on that photograph, among other set-ups, for the beauty book I'm doing with the burlesque superstar. And it certainly made a wonderful last-minute addition to not only Michael's installation, but the show collateral.
Yep. I chose two--count them, two--footwear makers in this year's Biennial. George Esquivel's bespoke men's and women's lace-ups and boots are completely made in his Buena Park workshop. Andy and I each own a pair of his seamless oxfords and they are among our most comfortable go-to shoes. George came with the entire Esquivel clan, including three of the most beautiful kids.
The 1940s French army table featured in George Esquivel's installation was generously loaned by Ray Azoulay of Obsolete in Santa Monica, one of the most captivating shops, chockablock with arcana and art that he picks up mostly in Europe.He's also got one of the most Yoji-filled closets imaginable, and one of my great joys when I'm at my Venice shop is catching what new get-up he's got on that day or evening. He lives right above A+R.

One of Ray's team at Obsolete is Rembrandt Van der Mijnsbrugge who, like his wife Sara Van der Mijnsbrugge, is a photographer. The are also one young couple with absolutely mad style. Always.
To wit, Michael and Susan Rosen are one veteran couple with mad style. The pair are half of Guild, a relatively recent addition to Abbot Kinney and probably one of the best L.A. boutiques because of its selection--including Biennial entrants Annie Costello Brown and Michel Berandi.
Sergio Gomez's card indicates he's installation director for the PMCA. But the force of nature wears so many more hats. He became a great ally, particularly when the installations a few of my designers and I showed up with tested the energies and talents of the crew. Despite all the torturing and grief from my end (and I say this with a measure of exaggeration since we always got on), he recognized my goal was to do right by the show and my designers, and I'm grateful to him for doing so.
Thank the gods for Douglas Little. He swept in over a few evenings to oversee the styling of Michael's elaborate set. His commitment meant bumping a trip to Berlin by a few days and burning the oil past midnight to 2 a.m. the night before the show. But the results are extraordinary.
Saturday's opening bash was the PMCA's biggest ever. And this scene was still early in the evening, before it became impossible to squeeze through the swarm!
Pop icon Cherry Vanilla, who is finally putting her legendary exploits to paper in the upcoming bio, "Lick Me," with her pilates pal Betsy--who is in her late 50s! And Madame Vanilla in those metal studded leggings? The other side of 65 and as fierce as she was as a Warhol Superstar.
Designer Clare Vivier (whose bags are my daily staple) and gallerina Heather Taylor, the height of colorful, summer chic.
So, too, Cheyann Benedict, also on the Host Committee.
On the 400-acre family farm in Ojai, Alexandra Balahoutis harvests pixie tangerines, pink pepper and lavendar, for her pure botanical fragrances, bottled as Strange Invisible Perfumes. Beside her is her master distiller, a lovely man named Jack Chaitman. By distilling most of the essences in house, SIP ensures its high standards.
Bill Scheyer and Jill Giordano of the San Francisco-based ready to wear collection gr.dano. Their four looks were among the hits of the show because of their wearbility. Every woman wanted to know where to shop them! (TenOverSix in L.A.)
Photographer Shawn Smith and John Quale, a.k.a. the sensational Prince Poppycock--and currently seen on America's Got Talent (and he does, besides looks).
And another grand talent, Selene Luna, who is performing this week in New Orleans along with Dita Von Teese. The tall drink of water in the back is Greg Seibel, a.k.a. G-Spot, who works at Kat Von D's parlour, High Voltage Tattoo. To their right is caterer Mo Fischer. No word if it's extra for her to do your party in that get-up.
Lifecoach to the rock 'n roll set, T.C. Conroy, flashing her ruby.

Garry George gives me some love, and, to my right, Joseph Brooks, whose natural jewelry I love and do very well with at A+R.
Among the many loved ones I was thrilled to see Saturday night was my mother Rosita, who came up from Laguna Beach, and my sister Blanca, up from Long Beach with my super fantastic new niece, Melody Rose, who, like her auntie, was wearing a kimono-style frock.
Pop cult chronicler and head of altered states Stephen Saban

Stacia Dunham, who despite putting in long harrowing days decorating Dita's new home still managed to get all dolled up and in heels, no less, for the evening.
Artists Remy and Van
Raven's uber stylish parents, Kate and Adam Kauffman
Brandee-Nicole Able, my trusted assistant, channeling Grace Jones (does she realize this?) and her fellow CSULA fashion student pal, Ricardo Mendez. Even on arrival to the party, Brandee went into action when a crisis occurred with one of Michael Schmidt's mannequins (more on that later!). That's how you get ahead a life.
Raven with her love Nate Wittasek, who managed to sweep back into L.A. from a business trip in Dubai in time for her grand bow.

The irrepressible, always adorable Howie Pyro.

Milliner Anita Hopkins strikes a pose.
Award-winning porn directress ChiChi LaRue looking better than ever.
Writer Steve Lowery and graphic artist Leslie Nash
Multi-media artist Bettina Hubby and pal Danielle.
Finally met this woman Saturday night, though I can't recall her name now. I do know she and her husband are big modern art enthusiasts, and I always spot them at MOCA galas or openings like this one--and she always looks amazing.
Miss Evelyn Black, auntie of Miss Paris, seen above with Raven. As if it were not enough that she made that colorful frock for her six-year-old niece, she also whipped up this number just that day.
Artist Paul D'Armas
Barbara Kramer and Julienne Ho of Strange Invisible Perfumes

Nancy Baitlin
Kelly Lamb, whose product designs are as cool as her style.
Josh Bassett, guitarist for A Priori and his lady, Jacklan
Posing by her new hero, Michael Schmidt, is Cherokee Neas in the reversible cape she made as part of her high school graduation collection. I mentored Cherokee this last season, and we spent a few fast and furious days searching for the right fabrics and bits for her project. When I was in high school, I worked for her pops, Thom, who also documented all of the streetstyle scenes and nightlife with his camera.
No idea who she is, but I love the top.
Another unknown to me, but her risk taking is worth featuring.


The piece de resistance: Michael's parents Landon and Marilyn Schmidt came out from Kansas to see what all excitement was about and, boy, did they get an eyeful. Here they are with Michael's cousin Ann Ballard, all being charmed by his dear friend, event and floral designer, Bradley Picklesheimer!

***


Photos of Kelly Lynch and Mitch Glazer, Nina Clemente, Calleen Cordero and Rose Apodaca by Donato Sardella
Photo of Schmidt family by Michael Schmidt
Photo of Scott Nathan by Cynthia Loebe

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